Woven Label Design Guide
Fold types, sizing specifications, and seam allowances — everything you need to specify woven labels for production. A technical reference for designers and apparel brands.
The 7 Woven Label Fold Types
The fold type determines how your woven label is finished and attached to a garment. Each fold creates a different look and serves different applications. Below are all seven standard fold types with technical diagrams showing flat layout, fold lines, and seam allowances.
Straight Cut (Die Cut / Laser Cut)
The simplest label format — no folds at all. The label is cut to final size with heat-sealed edges to prevent fraying. Can be sewn on all sides (patch style) or with one edge into a seam.
Center Fold
The most common fold type. The label is folded in half with a crease at the center, creating a front and back panel. Both raw edges are hidden inside the seam. Requires ¼" seam allowance on top and bottom edges.
Loop Fold
Identical layout to center fold, but without a crease. The label forms an open loop that stands away from the garment. Both raw edges are sewn into the seam. Creates a softer, more premium feel than a flat creased fold.
End Fold
Both left and right edges fold behind the label by ¼", creating clean finished edges on all sides. The label is sewn flat onto the garment (not into a seam). No raw edges are visible.
Mitre Fold
A landscape-oriented label where both ends fold up at 45° angles, creating triangular tabs that are sewn into a seam. The label hangs down and can double as a hanger loop. The fold zone width (x) equals the label height.
Manhattan Fold
A center fold with an additional ¼" tuck at the top edge only. The top edge folds behind, creating a clean finished top edge while the bottom edges are sewn into the seam. Lighter and less bulky than a book cover fold.
Book Cover Fold
A center fold with both top and bottom edges tucked behind (¼" each). All raw edges are hidden, creating the cleanest possible finish. Adds slightly more bulk than a manhattan fold but provides a fully finished appearance on all sides.
Seam Allowance Reference
Seam allowance is the portion of the label that gets sewn into the garment and is not visible. Always add seam allowances to your finished/visible label dimensions to calculate the total manufactured size.
| Fold Type | Seam Allowance | Where Applied | Total Size Formula |
|---|---|---|---|
| Straight Cut | ¼" (6mm) | One edge only (if sewn into seam); or all sides if patch-sewn | Finished + ¼" on sewn edge(s) |
| Center Fold | ¼" (6mm) | Top and bottom edges (hidden in seam) | Width stays same; Height = (visible height × 2) + (2 × ¼") |
| Loop Fold | ¼" (6mm) | Top and bottom edges (hidden in seam) | Same as center fold |
| End Fold | ¼" (6mm) | Left and right edges (fold behind) | Width = visible width + (2 × ¼"); Height stays same |
| Mitre Fold | ½" (12mm) | Each end (0.5" tab + fold zone = label height) | Width = visible + (2 × height) + (2 × 0.5") |
| Manhattan Fold | ¼" (6mm) | Top edge only (tuck behind) + seam at bottom | Height = (visible × 2) + ¼" top tuck |
| Book Cover Fold | ¼" (6mm) | Top and bottom edges (both tuck behind) | Height = (visible × 2) + ¼" top + ¼" bottom |
Fold Selection by Use Case
Choosing the right fold type depends on where the label will be placed, how it will be attached, and what look you're going for. Use this table as a quick reference.
| Use Case | Recommended Fold | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Neck label (standard) | Center Fold | Industry standard. Hidden seam edges, clean creased fold at top. |
| Neck label (premium) | Manhattan or Book Cover | Tucked top edge(s) for a fully finished appearance. |
| Neck label with hanger loop | Mitre Fold | 45° tabs create a functional hanger loop. |
| Hem tag / flag label | Center Fold or Loop Fold | Loop fold for soft curve; center fold for flat crease. |
| Sewn-on patch label | End Fold or Straight Cut | End fold for clean edges; straight cut for heat-sealed edges. |
| Iron-on / adhesive label | Straight Cut | Flat, no folds — compatible with adhesive backing. |
| Care/content label | Center Fold | Front and back panels provide space for extensive care instructions. |
| Side seam label | Center Fold or Loop Fold | Both edges hidden in seam. Loop fold for softer presentation. |
| Exterior brand label | End Fold | All edges finished. Sewn flat for maximum visibility. |
Sizing Guide
These are common woven label sizes by application. All dimensions are finished/visible sizes (not including seam allowance). Add the appropriate seam allowance from the table above to get total manufactured dimensions.
Neck Labels (Brand Labels)
| Size Name | Width × Height | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Compact | 1.5" × 0.625" | Minimal footprint. Common for women's and children's wear. |
| Standard | 2" × 0.75" | The most common neck label size. Works for most brand names. |
| Wide | 2.5" × 0.75" | Accommodates longer brand names or taglines. |
| Large | 2.5" × 1" | Statement labels. Common for streetwear and premium brands. |
| Extra Large | 3" × 1.5" | Maximum visibility. Used for outerwear and luxury brands. |
Hem Tags / Flag Labels
| Size Name | Width × Height | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Small Flag | 0.5" × 0.5" | Subtle brand accent. Common on sleeves or hems. |
| Standard Flag | 0.75" × 0.5" | Most popular hem tag size. Visible but not bulky. |
| Wide Flag | 1" × 0.625" | More real estate for logos. Common on denim and outerwear. |
Care / Content Labels
| Size Name | Width × Height | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Compact | 1.25" × 2" | Fits 3-4 lines of care info + symbols. For simple care requirements. |
| Standard | 1.5" × 2.5" | Room for care symbols, fiber content, origin, and brand info. |
| Extended | 1.5" × 3.5" | Multi-language care instructions. Required for many export markets. |
| Multi-page / book | 1.5" × 2.5" (per page) | 3-8 pages. For complex multilingual labeling requirements. |
Sewn-on Patch Labels
| Size Name | Width × Height | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Small | 1.5" × 0.75" | Interior waistband or collar labels. |
| Medium | 2" × 1" | Standard patch label. Inside or outside garment. |
| Large | 3" × 1.5" | Exterior brand labels on outerwear, bags, or accessories. |
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most common woven label fold type?
The center fold is the most common woven label fold type. The label is folded in half with a crease at the top, creating a front and back panel. It is sewn into a neck seam with both raw edges hidden inside the seam. Center fold labels are the industry standard for main brand labels in t-shirts, shirts, and most apparel.
What fold type should I use for a hem tag or flag label?
For hem tags and flag labels that extend outward from a side seam, use a center fold or loop fold. Center fold creates a flat tag with a creased edge, while loop fold creates an open loop that stands away from the garment. Loop fold is preferred for hem tags on premium garments because the soft curve feels more refined than a sharp crease.
What is the standard seam allowance for woven labels?
The standard seam allowance for woven labels is ¼ inch (6mm). This is the portion of the label that gets sewn into the garment seam and is not visible. For end fold labels, both left and right edges fold behind by ¼ inch. For mitre fold labels, the standard fold-up allowance is ½ inch (12mm) on each end.
What size should a woven neck label be?
Standard woven neck labels are typically 1" to 2.5" wide and 0.5" to 1.5" tall (finished/visible dimensions). The most common sizes are: 2" × 0.75" for a standard brand label, 1.5" × 0.625" for a compact label, and 2.5" × 1" for a larger statement label. Always add seam allowance (typically ¼" on each sewn edge) to the finished size to get the total manufactured size.
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